South America Trip 2

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June 4th, 2011...
Hello from Juneau, Alaska...and welcome back to VW Viaje! We all know it's been far too long since a website update, and I'll be the first to admit that I'm going to take the easy way out. That's right - instead of writing a detailed account of the past four and a half months, this entry is going to be more of a photo journal than anything else. So to get things started, here is a very brief recap of how I ended up moving halfway across the world from Lilongwe, Malawi to Juneau, Alaska...

On vacation from teaching in South Korea, Alison traveled to Africa and we embarked on an epic journey through Malawi, Zimbabwe, and South Africa. From the humid lowlands of Lake Malawi to cool, refreshing nights on the Viphya Plateau, Alison saw much of what "the warm heart of Africa" has to offer. We wandered the markets, bargained with salesmen, ate local meals, and Alison even donated some school supplies that she had brought from Korea to an elementary school in Lilongwe. Oh, and needless to say, there was plenty of excitement as well - rock climbing, mountain biking, fishing, hiking, and wakeboarding? Check.

Meandering south to Zimbabwe, we braved the local combi buses which brought us (albeit uncomfortably and inefficiently) from the capital city of Harare to the Chimanimani mountains and on to the Great Zimbabwe National Monument. Impressed by Harare's chaotic streets and Zimbabwe's vast landscapes, one thing clearly stood out more than anything else - the overwhelming friendliness of the Zim locals. Always kind, outgoing, and happy to help us out at any time.

Wasting no time, a night bus brought us across the Zimbabwe border and into South Africa where Alison and I spent the rest of our vacation together. Mentally prepared as we were, it was still surprising to find perfect roads, modern conveniences, and the telltale signs of civilization - McDonald's and KFC. Of course South Africa is no first world country, but coming from Malawi and Zimbabwe is was a massive shock to our system. We rented a car and made for the Kruger National Park where I finally completed my Big Five checklist by spotting a white rhino. Through KwaZulu-Natal and on to the coast, I got in some surfing (no sharks) before we reached Durban. A quick flight took us to Cape Town, and through the WWOOF organization we spent a week volunteering at the Fynbos Estate learning the basics of wine making. Our last few days were spent enjoying the impressive city of Cape Town with its unmistakable backdrop of Table Mountain.

Back in Malawi, my time at Nyassa Air Taxi was winding down. I had accepted a job working for Air Excursions in Juneau, Alaska, and so after over thirteen months in Africa, it was time to move on.

A whirlwind few days brought me from Lilongwe, Malawi (through Johannesburg, Dubai, and San Francisco) to Juneau, Alaska. Mountains, glaciers, snow, white people...it's a far cry from Africa, indeed. My new job is with a company called Air Excursions, flying throughout southeast Alaska. A busy summer schedule keeps us occupied for fourteen hours most days, but the scenery is beautiful and the flying rewarding. Plus...this is Alaska and there is plenty of hiking, fishing, and exploring to do in the surrounding wilderness, so there's never a dull moment during our days off. And speaking of days, they just keep getting longer and longer. With first light at around 3:30am and last light at 10:30pm, a good set of curtains is absolutely mandatory!

So here I am in Alaska, halfway across the world from Malawi, thinking of my next adventure. Always thinking of the next adventure.

With that, I'll let the photos do the rest of the talking...please enjoy!

Nyassa's Piper Cherokee 6 with a fresh paint job...parked at the Club Makakola airstrip. .

Just a few hours after arriving in Lilongwe, Alison is ready for her first local meal at our favorite outdoor braai restaurant.

A colorful array of flip flops at the market.

Enjoying a game of rummy at the Ntchisi Forest Lodge.

A friendly Malawian face - they don't call it the warm heart of Africa for nothing!

With Gecko at a going away party.

Together again! Before Alison came to Malawi, the last time I saw her was one year before in South Korea.

Evening on the lake at Luwawa Forest Lodge where we spent several days exploring, biking, and climbing.

Alison contemplates the expanse of the Viphya Plateau in central Malawi.

Alison on some African rock!

Rapelling down to the first climb.

Fishing in the evening on Luwawa Lake.

Alison looking very pictureque!

After a very African bus ride (through Malawi, into Mozambique, and on to Zimbabwe) we finally arrived in the chaotic yet friendly capital city of Harare, Zimbabwe.

Impressive rhino statue outside the art museum in Harare.

Nothing like some chocolate cake after eating Mexican food in Zimbabwe.

A full day of riding several combi buses brought us to the Chimanimani Mountains on the border of Zimbabwe and Mozambique.

A scenic hike took us to Bridal Veil Falls.

Despite the long and uncomfortable bus rides through Zimbabwe, there was always plenty to keep us entertained...like this curious kid who kept popping in to check out the mzungus , or white people.

Hotel and visitors center at the Great Zimbabwe National Monument.

Looking up onto the Hill Complex of the ruins.

Our next stop was the Kruger National Park in South Africa. Here are two white rhinos!

One of many well developed camp sites in the Kruger Park.

Our trusty VW Polo from Avis...got us around South Africa from Pietersburg to Durban!

Self guided safari!

Yellow billed hornbill.

Marabou storks.

Some wildebeest mingling with the zebras.

A clever elephant steals water from a holding tank in the park.

Early morning wildebeest.

Driving on some dirt roads through KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa.

Durban, South Africa.

All welcome? Sure doesn't look like it!

Before exploring Cape Town we spent a week volunteering at the Fynbos Estate on the Western Cape while learning about the winemaking.

Alison putting some labels on bottles of Jack's Red.

In the mountains above the Fynbos Estate, looking out towards the Atlantic Ocean.

Alison doing some scrambling to get to the top for a sunset view.

Pulling in with another load of grapes.

Sealing the tops with a very expensive hair dryer.

Hiking at Fynbos.

Removing skins and stems after pressing the grapes.

Table Mountain in Cape Town is routinely covered in a blanket of fog know as the "tablecloth".

Hiking at Table Mountain with a panoramic view of Cape Town.

The perfect day to be on Table Mountain overlooking Clifton beach.

Malibu? Nope, Clifton Beach, South Africa.

Just a few miles up the coast from Cape Town is some of the best kite surfing in the world.

Sunset kiteboard session.

Just after dropping Daniel off for a sunset skydive.

Beautiful day for my last flight in Africa.

Approaching Lilongwe from Likoma Island.

Final picture of the Nyassa Air Taxi crew before my flight back home. Vatsal (India), Pablo (Spain), Me, Johan (South Africa), and Nic (Canada).

First solo flight in Alaska.

Katzehin Flats.

Hiking with Scott at Echo Cove on a typical rainy Juneau day.

Scott hiking up the trail to Windfall Lake.

Flying from Haines back to Juneau.

Logan tries his luck with the trout in Crystal Lake.

Me, Adrian, Lindsay, Clay, and Sophie the lab on a Cinco de Mayo hike.

Katzehin Flats flying north to Skagway.

In front of a VW Westfalia camper in Blantyre!

Ntchisi Mountain Forest Reserve. It took some serious navigation, but after following a bumpy dirt road and directions like "turn left after the big antenna," we actually made it.

Posing with a vendor at the market. He's average height for a Malawian male.

Nic takes a massive leap of faith and lets Johan cut his hair.

Happy to be on the road in Africa!

Alison donated an assortment of school supplies that she brought from Korea to the Mkwichi Secondary School in Lilongwe. Here she is meeting with the head teacher before taking a tour of the small campus.

Reconnaissance mission on the Viphya Plateau! After driving for several kilometers on a deteriorating 4x4 road, we thought there was no possible way to make it through this last stretch of mud in the 2WD Corolla.

Driving out for some rock climbing - Malawi style!

Our guide prepares the rope for our first climb.

A day on the rocks in Malawi.

My first time climbing in over two years.

The view from our porch! A double rainbow is our reward after hiking through a thoroughly drenching downpour.

Malawian black bass on the Viphya Plateau.

Downtown Harare, Zimbabwe. A much more developed city than most people would expect.

More colonial buildings in Harare, which was once called Salisbury - the capital of Rhodesia

Some local Zimbabweans that we met outside of the art museum in Harare.

More cake!

Alison preparing a delicious dinner at the Frog and Fern B&B with our new friend.

In front of Bridal Veil Falls.

It may look like 3rd class, but compared to the overcrowded combis, this bus was luxury! Enroute to the Great Zimbabwe National Monument.

Alison trudges through the final stage of our exhausting day to reach the Great Zimbabwe ruins.

Alison's first giraffe!

Incredible display of birds just before sunset in Kruger National Park.

Just another roadside elephant...definitely bigger than our little vehicle.

Hippos.

Spotting for lions on an early morning safari.

Aside from antelope, elephants and giraffes were the most common sightings.

Ostriches are just as awkward looking in the wild as they are in captivity.

Roadblock!

An impala looks for danger.

Kruger National Park.

KFC has a Drive Thru, the Chicken Inn has a Fly-Thru. Only in Africa.

Alison out on the pier in Durban.

We dropped our rental car at the Durban airport and hopped on a cheap Mango Airlines flight to Cape Town.

Fynbos Estate, about one hour outside of Cape Town.

Oak barrels outside the wine cellar.

Blazing our own way to the top.

Some bouldering potential!

"Punching down" the grapes in the fermentation tanks to prevent them from overflowing.

Doing some cleanup.

Just before Alison and I arrived there was a massive wildfire that tore through the area. Unfortunately, this tortoise didn't make it.

Near the top after another evening bushwhacking expedition.

The crew of WWOOF volunteers at Fynbos Estate.

Exploring the climbing potential.

Surfing anyone?

Alison making some local friends while lounging around. Not pictured is the constant wind that scours these beaches.

Parting shot! 4:30am with a full moon before catching our flight from Cape Town to Johannesburg. Alison flew back to Korea via Hong Kong while I flew back to Malawi.

Training flight with Johan over Lake Malawi between Club Makakola and Monkey Bay.

In the Airvan on Likoma Island.

After my last flight in Malawi!

Dredge Lake in Juneau.

Nice to see some real mountains again after a year in Africa!

My home for the first 6 weeks in Juneau on Scott's floor.

Forest service cabin on Windfall Lake.

$450 and 36 miles per gallon.

First cutthroat trout in Alaska!

Hiking the Mt. Juneau trail...too much snow prevented me from reaching the summit.

The Herbert Glacier enroute to Juneau .

Dodging storms on the flight back from Mfuwe, Zambia.

One last lap through the Lilongwe market.

Hiking with Alison at Ntchisi forest reserve.

Enroute from the Chileka airport to Blantyre.

One of several chameleons that crossed the road in front of us.

One of the classrooms at Mkwichi Secondary School.

But with the help of some local knowledge we plowed through. Of course we later found out that there is another well-maintained access road to the lodge.

A custom footwarmer on the porch of our room at Luwawa Forest Lodge.

Some flashy 1980's style climbing shoes.

Silhouette photo of Alison being lowered down from a climb.

Taking on a short but diffucult section of the climb.

Just before leaving Luwawa Forest Lodge.

Standing watch over the braai at Gecko's lake house.

Pablo playing some Spanish tunes on the shore of Lake Malawi.

Harare's central park.

Keeping up with my journal in Zimbabwe.

A typical Zimbabwean combi bus, they don't depart until they overflow with passengers and random cargo that is eith strapped to the top or shoved onto your lap.

Hiking around the Chimanimani Mountains to the Eland Sanctuary above town.

Candlelight dinner at our cabin in the Chimanimani mountains.

Crossing the Birchenough Bridge over the Save River. At the time of completion, it was the third longest single-arch suspension bridge in the world.

Zimbabwe wins the prize for smallest lizard ever .

Overlooking the Great Enclosure and the Valley Complex of the Great Zimbabwe National Monument. It is the largest stone structure in Africa outside of Egypt.